One could almost get lost in the water with this shiny ocean blue color applied first.

A different view of the speedboat after the blue coats have been sprayed. Notice the masking around the bottom of the boat for protection.

Now it's time to apply the custom graphics to the boat. Oneal had given us a conceptual drawing of the paint scheme with several different perspectives of the boat. He had also given us one of the seats to use to match our colors. To apply the graphics I brought in one of our graphic and airbrush artists, Johnny Sotelo.

Almost every graphic or flame job starts the same way - laying the centerline down the middle of the boat with 3M 1/8 inch blue vinyl tape. The appropriate size for laying down the centerline is 1/8 inch because, even though the centerline is the backbone of the graphic layout, it isn't really part of the design itself. We will be modifying it as the graphics overlap and the less tape to cut away the better.

Sotelo started by laying out the largest color first - which in this case happened to be House of Kolor Majik Blue Pearl Basecoat. The graphics in this design had a combination of subtle curves and sharp ninety degree turns. With the normal curves we just laid them out with the blue vinyl tape, being careful not to stretch the tape, because it will always shrink back and the graphic will have to be done over again. Where the ninety degree turns happen - and where the graphics overlap, it is necessary to layout one graphic over the other with separate pieces of vinyl tape.

Usually the graphic that's going to be on top is laid down first. So with a lot of overlapping graphics, you should have the top graphic laid out on the bottom and the graphics furthest to the bottom should be laid out on top. This will make more sense when spraying the graphics and you begin peeling them away one by one. Since the last graphic to be sprayed has been covered during the whole process, when peeled off, it will look like it's on top of all the others. When graphics overlap each other, some cutting on the surface will be needed. This can be an uncomfortable situation for someone who doesn't have a lot of experience in this technique.

First, grab an X-acto knife with a new blade.

Rich tip: I suggest using a blade for a short time, then replacing it. I go through a ton of blades on every project, but using fresh blades is why I never get a cut mark in my finish. If you cut with a dull blade, you will definitely cut into your basecoat - guaranteed.

Cutting the graphic

The technique used for cutting a graphic which comes to a point is the same as with all overlapping graphics and graphics with sharp corners. First you cut the bottom tape, using the top tape as a kind of straight edge and guideline. Then cut the top tape - not at the edge of the graphic, but in the middle of the tape, where it overlaps the bottom tape. Be extremely careful when cutting on any painted surface. You have to be like a surgeon with a scalpel - only cutting the layer of tape and not cutting deeper into the finish. If you do, you will get a gouge in your paint, which looks ugly and could also result in lifting problems later.

Rich tip: One trick I like is to use a straight razor blade by lying the sharp side along the cut I want to make. I hold the blade with one hand and with my other hand I pull the end of the tape up, causing it to cut itself as it's pulled away. This way I don't have to apply any pressure and risk cutting my finish. I try to use this technique as much as possible. Unfortunately, it only works on a flat surface and not on a curve. So where it curves you'll still have to cut with an X-acto knife.