In last month's column, you read a candid review of our shop operation on Banbridge Island, near Seattle, Washington. The review was conducted by Mark Olson, owner of Future Forensics (www.futureforensics.com), and co-owner of Verifacts Automotive. Olson specializes in auto damage investigations and supplying "expert witness" testimony in auto-related court cases.
This month, Olson continues his critique of on-going repairs at Modern Collision Rebuild. Olson's visit was unannounced and, therefore, quite candid. I think you'll find it instructive - I know we did.
In answer to a tech's question, "Is seam sealing included in crash manual labor times?" Olson answered, "While the seam sealing labor is included, the cost of sealing materials is not. New cars come with a limited rust warranty (such as three years on some models) because the manufacturer knows that even factory E-coat-dipped vehicles will eventually rust.
"So, how can repair shops afford to offer a lifetime warranty? If you are offering a lifetime warranty, it's most likely because your competitors do. Auto manufacturers know that all vehicles, even heavily E-coated ones, will eventually rust out. So, to limit failure, you must go beyond what the manufacturer offers."
Commenting on some incomplete plug welds on a bedside, Olson pointed out, "The idea is to start the weld at the center, getting good penetration there and then spiraling to the outer edges of the plug-weld hole, being sure that the hole is completely filled with weld that sufficiently penetrates all of the panel to which this panel is being welded.
"Any part of the hole left un-welded will cause the entire weld to fail when exposed to sufficient stress. You are expected to produce welds that will react in the next collision the same way the factory welds did in this collision - and partial or poor-penetration welds won't react the same.
"And don't use those spot-weld remover bits that leave a pilot drill hole that must be welded up; it's much better to use a spot weld remover of the type with the adjustable C-clamp wherever possible, so you can regulate how much of the weld you are removing, without damaging the panel underneath."
Pinch-weld prep for glass
Olson continued, "When replacing a roof panel [as well as some quarter panels], remember that the glass is designed to be part of the vehicle's structure. So, rather than painting the pinch-weld before reinstalling the windshield, cover the pinch-weld with tape after applying epoxy primer to it. Never use acid-etching primer. Then after the roof is painted and you pull the tape off the pinch-weld, you have brand new E-coated metal that the W/S urethane will stick to (check with your paint manufacturer and the OEM).
"Remember that the shear strength of basecoat paint to the factory E-coating, and the clearcoat to the basecoat, may not be strong enough to pass a lap-shear test. If there is a weak bond there it doesn't matter how strong the W/S urethane is; it might come apart in a future accident. A number of manufacturers are now recommending this area remain unpainted. And since Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards say that windshields are a structure component, the W/S must be installed in such a way that built-in structural integrity is maintained.
"Possibly the paint is of itself strong enough when properly applied, but did your painter allow for the proper flash-time, considering temperature and humidity, plus any number of other possible considerations? Painting this pinch-weld may not affect the vehicle when it's taken through a carwash, but will the bond stay intact if involved in a subsequent collision?"
The rules (at the time of repair) prevail
"Many times it's not so much that you're doing it wrong (although sometimes this is the case); it's more often a matter of not knowing what the right way is. The bad part is that they keep changing the rules, and the rules that were current when you did the repair are the rules you're going to be held accountable for in a court of law. You're the professional; you're supposed to keep up with the current rules.
"The customer doesn't have to know the rules, and adjusters, technicians, and many shop owners, though they should, often don't keep up with factory authorized repair procedure changes. But you have to know the rules, because you're the professional, and it's your neck that's on the block."
Implement recheck system
"It happens to us all that sometimes we get so involved in a job that we forget to do, or only do partially, some of the small but necessary steps in a repair. So, a better method is to agree with your shop's co-workers to check out each other's work so you can take care of any errors or omissions before it goes to the paint department. Of course your co-worker isn't likely to be too critical of your workmanship because 'what goes around comes around.' But there is real benefit in catching any mistakes you might have made before the vehicle is painted.
"Having such a re-check system agreement between the paint and repair departments will assure better repairs. Knowing your work will be re-checked before it advances to the next department will make all techs much more conscious of the repairs they perform, producing a better end product, fewer re-dos, and fewer headaches for the office.
"To the painters; don't paint over something that's not right. If the weld isn't right, don't paint over it or cover it with seam sealer. Repair techs, when the painter is finished, check out his work to be sure he has paint covering all the nooks and crannies, and seam sealer surrounding all welds. Work as a team, and ask others to check over your work. Eventually, this will raise the standard of quality in any shop."
Note improperly performed repairs
"Documenting improperly performed previous repairs is very important. When a previously-repaired vehicle ends up in your work stall, write down any problems you see and give your list to your office so they can inform the vehicle owner, freeing your shop from assuming responsibility for someone else having taken shortcuts."
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