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18 memorable days traveling in Spain and Portugal E-mail
Sunday, 01 August 2004

My wife Bobbi and I recently returned from visiting the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal). Our daughter, Shannin, a costume designer who worked for L.A. Opera, and presently freelances on various movies, operas, and the like, had just finished assisting Madrid Opera in costume setup for Tchaikovsky's Queen of Spades. 

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Strom
Communication, for me, was a problem; my Spanish stopped - technically, barely started - with Miss Campbell's high school class 39 long years ago, in which I spent more time daydreaming of hotrods and girls I wished I had the nerve to ask out, than on Spanish conjugation. But realizing it's a good practice to establish at least a limited vocabulary to cover the necessities of foreign travel, I quickly picked up on enough of the basic words to sustain life: "viejo" = "cheese to die for," "xocoa" = "chocolate," "helado" = "ice cream," "batigo" = "milkshake," and "aseos" = "bathroom."
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Beautiful Spanish architecture was observed during the Strom family vacation.
 
Meeting her in Madrid, we then toured Barcelona, Granada, Nerja, Ronda, Rock of Gibraltar, Sevilla (we didn't see the Barber, or Carmen), Arcos, Salema, and Lisbon, plus stops in between, before flying home from Madrid.
 

With Shannin as translator, and employing every conceivable means of transportation short of donkey cart, we experienced a sampling of a wide variety of the culture, history, architecture, and inhabitants, mostly of the older districts of this portion of Western Europe… a trip that won't be forgotten this side of Alzheimers.

Move over slowpoke
 
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 The architectural influence of the Moors, originally from Northern Africa, who ruled the Iberian Peninsula until 1492, is yet present everywhere.

I'd always had a preconceived notion that all Western Europeans were laid-back. While some businesses and individuals still take a mid-afternoon siesta, at most other times of day those we experienced seemed quite impatient, though not maliciously so.

Clipping along in the fast lane of a freeway at 120 kph (approx. 72 mph) may find your rear view mirrors overwhelmed with the grill and flashing lights of a car or large truck as close as one car length from your tail.

Hesitating at a traffic light for a fraction of a second often evokes a combination of arm-waving, loud unintelligible speech, and horn honking.Being a "pedestrian beware" country, any place is a good place to cross Iberian streets, though if you get hit while jaywalking, it's your problem.

Window-shopping tourists had better get out of the way of local pedestrians on a mid-day mission. Multi-lane "roundy-rounds" being everywhere present in larger European cities, the only drivers seemingly confused in negotiating them are tourists. In short, though locals characteristically drive like crazy, they apparently do so according to a set of rules they all understand and observe. During our 18 days, I saw only one auto accident, apparently caused by a tourist in a rental car. Though there seemed to be less aggression directed toward us as tourists than I'd expected, the good thing about traveling in a country whose language you can't comprehend is that if they are cussing you out, you don't know it!

Constant construction

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A Madrid curbside gas station looks like a drive-up coffee shop.
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 Repuestos/Rafa is a Spanish auto parts store where they sell anything and everything imaginable that is auto-related.

Construction, reconstruction and re-reconstruction are as constant in Spain as life itself; the country appears to be torn between its need to maintain its ancient roots while being very tourist friendly. Many ancient buildings are being totally gutted, except for their ancient fascias, in an effort to incorporate old-world flavor with modern interiors and earthquake-proofing.

Wood having always been a scarce commodity here, long-lasting marble in many beautiful colors is the building material of choice for floors and walls. Roads, sidewalks and alleyways in the older districts are composed of cobblestones and/or bricks cemented together, some of them dating back centuries.

The Spanish and Portuguese have a strange approach to trash. While buying breakfast pastries at a popular old-style "pasteria,"we watched as the older gentleman wrapped our purchase in brightly colored paper tied together with string. However, we couldn't help noticing the litter of wrappings and cigarette butts covering the floor. Curious, we learned that in their culture it's a usual and customary practice to discard such trash pretty much wherever you want, a practice which keeps many street-sweepers and trash collectors constantly employed.

Skilled and innovative drivers
 

Generally speaking, the older cities are composed of a myriad of seemingly unorganized maze of cobble-stoned and/or bricked streets and walkways between small shops and residences. The result is that most Europeans have become incredibly skilled and inventive drivers. While seated outside a small café we watched, amazed, as the driver of a van drove up, backed 90 degrees onto the cobblestone sidewalk, pulled in his mirrors, and proceeded to effortlessly drive down an adjacent alleyway that was somewhat short of a foot wider than the van itself. Partly to provide shade, these older residences were built close together with no room for expansion, and modern drivers have to make do as best can, which they do well. I got the feeling that without reverse gear, whole cities would gridlock within seconds.

The scarcity of parking spaces in older cities have caused these folks to hone parallel parking skills to a science - we watched them park a car or van in a cubbyhole in which most Americans would have trouble parking a shopping cart… and they do it so effortlessly. Parallel parking European-style, though, often includes tagging others' bumpers, but no one seems to care. In fact, from the number of un-repaired dings, dents and sideswipes coursing the streets, it would appear this isn't a good place to sell auto insurance, or build a collision repair shop.
Will Mikey and Minnie pop out of this cute little pick-up? This vehicle is typical of the economy vehicles found in Spain and Portugal.
 


 
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